
ABSTRACT
Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s collection reinterprets American dandy and cowboy-inspired workwear through luxury craftsmanship. Featuring elevated western staples like blanket coats, denim, and chaps, the collection also revives classic Vuitton silhouettes in bold, modern ways. Collaborations with the Dakota and Lakota Nations and American Boot Manufacturer Timberland add cultural depth and authenticity, while historical references to 17th–19th century America ground the collection in a rich narrative of the American frontier.
SETTING
Set in Paris’s Jardin d’Acclimatation, Pharrell Williams transformed the runway into a cinematic homage to the American West. With sweeping visuals of canyons, plains, and mountains, warm lighting that transitioned to snowfall, and rustic metal homes, the show evoked a romanticized version of “Paris, Virginia.” This immersive scenography reflected the collection’s rural American inspiration and Louis Vuitton’s enduring spirit of travel.

INSPIRATION
DSQUARED2
CHANEL
CALVIN KLEIN
RALPH LAUREN
OFF-WHITE
Drawing from classic Americana and Native American heritage, the collection revisits western wear through a luxury lens. Though designers like Ralph Lauren, Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel (2013), Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, and Virgil Abloh at Off-White have explored similar themes, Pharrell Williams distinguishes this vision of cowboy staples, heavy Native American influences, and fuses it with Louis Vuitton’s core principles and values—
Innovation, the spirit of Travel, Authenticity, and Savoir-Faire Craftsmanship.
“When you see cowboys portrayed, you only see a few versions. (…) In reality, they look like us, they look like me, they’re black, they look Native American. We are here to tell stories and give a platform to the destinations we go to and how they inspire us, not to take anything or appropriate.”
- Pharrell Williams

KEY LOOKS
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A STANDOUT FROM THE COLLECTION IS THE REIMAGINED KEEPALL BAG, CREATED IN COLLABORATION WITH NATIVE AMERICAN ARTISTS FROM THE DAKOTA AND LAKOTA NATIONS. THIS VERSION FEATURES HAND-PAINTED DESIGNS INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL TIPI PATTERNS AND THE PARFLECHE MOTIF, SYMBOLIZING THE FOUR WINDS OF THE EARTH. RICH WITH CULTURAL MEANING, EVERY COLOR—RED, BLUE, AND YELLOW—REPRESENTS VALUES LIKE VALOR, PERSEVERANCE, AND LIGHT. ADORNED WITH INTRICATE BEADING, STUDS, GOLDEN HARDWARE, AND MULTICOLORED THREADWORK, THIS REINTERPRETATION FUSES LOUIS VUITTON HERITAGE WITH INDIGENOUS CRAFTSMANSHIP, OFFERING AN UNPRECEDENTED TAKE ON THE BRAND’S 1930S CLASSIC.
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THE “SKY STONE” APPEARS THROUGHOUT THE COLLECTION IN REIMAGINED WAYS—ON SPEEDY BAGS, SNAPS, BELT BUCKLES, HAT DETAILS, BUTTONS, EMBOSSMENTS, EARRINGS, AND BOLO TIES. THIS LOOK FEATURES A WHITE SHIRT WITH TURQUOISE BUTTONS, A SILK TIED RIBBON, AND A LONG WESTERN COAT WITH TASSEL TRIM AND CONTRASTED FOLIAGE AROUND THE TORSO. TURQUOISE EMBELLISHMENTS SEEN ON THE SHIRT BUTTONS, EARRINGS, AND BUTTER-LEATHER SPEEDY BAG ARE JUST ONE OF MANY TIMES THIS STONE SHOWS UP IN THIS LV COLLECTION.
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USE OF BUFFALO PLAID IS SIGNIFICANT IN THIS COLLECTION. ACCORDING TO THE SCOTTISH TARTAN AUTHORITY, THE PATTERN IS BELIEVED TO BE ORIGINALLY BROUGHT TO THE UNITED STATES IN THE 1800S BY A DESCENDANT OF ROB ROY MACGREGOR, A SCOTTISH FOLK-HERO AND OUTLAW OF THE 15TH CENTURY, WHO BEFRIENDED AND WORKED ALONG NATIVE TRIBES BY TRADING THE PATTERN FOR BUFFALO PELTS AND OTHER ITEMS. THE PATTERN EVENTUALLY MADE ITS WAY TO WOOLRICH MILLS IN THE MID-1800S AND HAS SINCE BEEN A STAPLE PATTERN ACROSS THE WORLD. DISPLAYED IN FIGURE THREE, THE RED AND BLACK BUFFALO PLAID PATTERN MIXED WITH THE BRAND'S SIGNATURE DAMIER PATTERN IS A PERFECT COMBINATION OF CLASSIC AMERICAN-WEAR AND MODERN LUXURY. THE WOOL-LIKE SHIRT IS ACCENTED WITH SILVER AND TURQUOISE COLLAR TIPS WITH A TURQUOISE-STONE BOLO-TIE IN BETWEEN. THE MODEL IS ACCOMPANIED BY A ROLLED MATCHING BLANKET UNDERNEATH THEIR RIGHT ARM, WHILE ALSO CARRYING A SMALL HANDHELD TRUNK WITH A MATCHING DAMIER/BUFFALO CHECK PATTERN IN THE SAME HAND. DIRECTING ATTENTION TO THE BOTTOM-HALF OF THE FIGURE, A BOLD, METAL, WESTERN BELT BUCKLE IS SEEN PAIRED WITH BOOT-CUT DENIM AND FRINGE TASSELS TRAILING DOWN THE OUTSEAM WITH TURQUOISE STONE DETAILS AROUND THE POCKETS. TO MATCH THE SILVER BELT BUCKLE, STEEL-TOED BOOTS CAN BE SEEN ON MANY OF THE FIGURES THROUGHOUT THIS COLLECTION, EMBODYING THE RIGIDITY OF THE ORIGINAL COWBOY STYLE.
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ANOTHER TASTEFUL EXAMPLE OF THE FUSION BETWEEN CLASSIC AMERICAN SILHOUETTES AND MODERN LUXURY CAN BE SEEN IN FIGURE FOUR: A TAILORED, WESTERN-STYLE OVERSHIRT WITH A FORMAL TWIST, FEATURING A LAPEL TYPICALLY FOUND IN SUITING. UNDERNEATH, A BLACK VEST WITH TURQUOISE EMBELLISHMENTS IS LAYERED ATOP A BLACK BUTTON UP DRESS SHIRT WITH A TURQUOISE-BUTTON COLLAR, ACCOMPANIED BY A GEM-EMBOSSED TIE AROUND THE NECK. INTERESTINGLY, THE FIGURE IS SEEN WEARING DOUBLE-KNEE SLACKS TO MATCH THE FORMALITY OF THE UNIFORM, THOUGH STAYING TRUE TO THE UNDERLYING THEMES OF THE COLLECTION. FINALLY, ACCESSORIES INCLUDE A BLACK-LEATHER STETSON HAT WITH A BOLD ‘LV’ LOGO SILVER BUCKLE, A MATCHING BELT WITH THE SAME FLASHY ‘LV’ LOGO ON THE BUCKLE, STEEL-TOED COWBOY BOOTS, AND A KEEPALL BAG IN THE COWMOOFLAGE PATTERN WHICH IS NEWLY TRADEMARKED FOR THIS COLLECTION AND PROVIDES A NEW STYLE TO WILLIAMS’ DAMOUFLAGE PATTERN.
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CLASSIC BLUE-COLLAR AMERICAN WORKWEAR IS ON FULL DISPLAY IN FIGURE FIVE AS MULTIPLE SIMILAR SCENES OF MODELS WHEELING OUT EXTRA-LARGE TRUNKS ON DOLLIES ARE SEEN THROUGHOUT THE SHOW. EACH VARIATION OF THESE MODELS IS SEEN SPORTING A TRADITIONAL WORKWEAR-INSPIRED CHORE COAT WITH THE SIGNATURE LOUIS VUITTON LOGO ON THE BREAST POCKET AS WELL AS THE ZIPPER, AND WHITE DOUBLE-KNEE CANVAS PANTS. THE COLLABORATION BETWEEN AMERICAN BOOTMAKER TIMBERLAND AND LOUIS VUITTON DEBUTED ON THE MODELS’ FEET. THIS COLLABORATION FUSES THE CLASSIC SILHOUETTE OF THE TIMBERLAND BOOT, WORN UNIVERSALLY BUT NOTABLY UTILIZED BY BLUE-COLLAR WORKERS ACROSS THE COUNTRY, WITH THE LUXURIOUS ASPECTS OF LOUIS VUITTON BY ADDING DETAILS SUCH AS A MONOGRAMMED INSOLE AND TONGUE, SUEDED LEATHER, AND A MORE RIGID SOLE. 'THE GOLD RUSH COURRIER LOZINE,’ AS THE NAME SUGGESTS, IS A GOLD-PLATED TRUNK MEASURING ROUGHLY FORTY-THREE INCHES LONG, NINETEEN INCHES WIDE, AND TWENTY-TWO INCHES DEEP, IS A GOLD-PLATED TRUNK INSPIRED BY THE CALIFORNIA GOLD RUSH OF 1848–1855. THIS INFORMATION IS NOTABLE AS IT FUSES THE ROMANTICIZATION OF RICHES IN THE WEST, CLASSIC AMERICAN HISTORY, AND A STAPLE IN LOUIS VUITTON'S CATALOG BEING ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE PRODUCTS THEY HAVE TO OFFER.

TAKING A CLOSER LOOK


















GUESTS IN ATTENDANCE

KEY TAKEAWAYS
BY DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM RURAL VIRGINIA AND THE CLASSIC COWBOY AND WESTERN ICONOGRAPHY OF AMERICAN HISTORY, PHARRELL WILLIAMS’ TAKE ON "LUXURY AMERICANA" SHINES THROUGH IN ITS INTRICATE AND FINE DETAILS. MANY PIECES IN THE COLLECTION FEATURE TURQUOISE BEADING OR EMBELLISHMENTS, INTRICATE HAND PAINTED DETAILS, DETAILED EMBROIDERY, AND VARIED ELEGANT TWISTS ON CLASSIC AMERICAN STAPLES.
THESE WERE ALL SHOWCASED ON STYLES TRADITIONALLY WORN OUTDOORS, HAVING THE ABILITY TO WITHSTAND MOST HARSH CONDITIONS, FURTHERING THE IDEA OF ‘AMERICAN DANDY’ AS DESCRIBED IN THE SHOW NOTES. BY COMBINING THE ORNAMENTAL ROOTS OF LOUIS VUITTON, WILLIAMS’ PERSONAL BACKGROUND, AND AN ABUNDANCE OF INSPIRATIONS, WILLIAMS AMALGAMATES THESE SIMILAR YET OPPOSITIONAL IDEALS TO CREATE A BEAUTIFUL DISPLAY OF AMERICAN LUXURY.
RESEARCH CITED
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Meredith, A. (2020, April). Parfleches. First American Art. https://firstamericanartmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/faam26_34_parfleches.pdf
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The Scottish Tartans Authority. (2023). The Scottish Tartans Authority and its history https://www.scottishtartansauthority.com/
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